Oamaru to Dunedin

Last night we stayed in Oamaru, a sleepy little coastal town that time has (mostly) forgotten. It's famed for its limestone buildings, blue- and yellow-eyed penguins, and its historic harbourfront area.

We had dinner at the Criterion Hotel, which was serving few patrons when we entered but soon showed itself to be the preferred watering hole for local drinking professionals. (We were the only ones in there actually eating.) I had an excellent meal of bacon-wrapped local mussels, chips and salad. (When in doubt, I get something with bacon and/or chips.) Speights Lager flows freely here -- their tagline is "pride of the South" -- and it is very very good.

As we were settling the tab, I fell into conversation with a wild-eyed gentleman at the bar, who divined from my accent that I am not from these parts. We had a lively chat about American and world politics, and I was reminded of how much the world knows about America and how little we know about them. To me, New Zealand's anonymity is kind of an asset -- then again, a little more recognition wouldn't hurt the economy. (Which, incidentally, seems to be doing very well. The unemployment rate is 4%, which is effectively zero. Farmers have had a rough couple of years, but in general everyone I've talked to thinks things are going ok.)

This morning I went for a sunrise run over the hills and toward Bushy Beach -- amazing views -- and saw a couple of yellow-eyed penguins waddling along. This was quite a find -- they're pretty rare in number and can be tough to spot in the morning hours. During my run I had another find -- on the little gravel road from the beach I spotted our friends Sarah and Tara, who we'd just said "ta" to in Taupo a few days ago! We all had a little reunion breakfast at a local cafe in town. What can I say, it's a small country.

We did the short drive to Dunedin this afternoon. Dunedin is a bustling college town -- tons of cafes and shops and young people. Also: MAN, is it windy here. And cold. We're going to seek out some live music tonight.

Ok, now I'm going to put up some photos for your further entertainment.

-Dave